Every lash technician desires to achieve that flawless connection between natural lashes and extensions. However, even the most exceptional consultations and the ideal design can result in premature shedding. This anxiety-inducing consequence can leave any lash technician feeling frustrated and perplexed.
If you’re encountering challenges with eyelash extension retention for your clients, rest assured that you’re not alone. To provide you with reassurance, our specialists have compiled essential lash bonding and positioning recommendations for clients.
Keep reading to discover how to enhance your retention and fulfill your clients with every application.
Primary guideline: Affix lashes 0.5mm away from the dermis alongside the lash line.
Extensions should be positioned along the genuine eyelash, maintaining a 0.5mm gap from the dermis along the lash line. Inaccurate placement at the prescribed distance can lead to two potential issues:
If the lash extension is affixed too proximate to the dermis, the adhesive might permeate the skin, causing discomfort. Additionally, the lash may experience friction whenever the client blinks, resulting in substantial discomfort, as well as potential swelling, redness, and puffiness in the eye region.
Furthermore, if the lashes are attached excessively far along the natural lash, an evident space is left. This occurrence can trap dirt and oils beneath the lash extension, causing premature detachment. There is even a risk of accidentally catching the fresh lash set with a lash brush and inadvertently removing it.
Ensure complete attachment of the extension’s base
Regardless of the curl, size, or orientation you select, it is essential to guarantee that the foundation of the lash extension is securely bonded to the natural lash, with a minimum separation of 2mm. Carelessness during placement can result in an incorrect angle, causing the base of the natural lash to protrude. In such cases, dirt and oils may accumulate beneath the lash extension, leading to premature detachment. There is even a risk of inadvertently catching the fresh lash set with a lash brush and unintentionally removing it.
Certain natural lashes may grow in a bent or sideways manner. Although you may feel inclined to apply extensions to every single lash. It is advisable to leave out such lashes for the sake of achieving better attachment. Bent eyelashes do not provide sufficient bonding surface and are prone to premature shedding.
The rule of 90 degrees
The principle of the 90-degree rule is simply to ensure that each eyelash extension is positioned at a 90-degree angle. It is essential to attach the lash at a 90-degree angle from the eyelid, disregarding the natural direction of the lashes or your body position relative to the client. Some styles, such as the cat-eye design, may require wider lash placement than the 90-degree angle. However, even in such cases, the lashes from the inner corner to the center of the eye should be lashed at a 90-degree angle. Placing the lash extension at a wider angle than 90 degrees on the inner corner not only fails to create a flattering appearance but also has the potential to cause discomfort to the client.
Is it possible to attach a lash extension from the side?
There is no specific rule that dictates the direction from which lash extensions must be attached. It is permissible to attach them from the side and bottom as well. However, it is important to ensure that the base of the extension aligns parallel to the natural lash and that there is sufficient bonding surface.
Top Attachment: This is the most prevalent and favored technique, especially suitable for horizontally aligned and descending natural lashes.
Side attachment: The side attachment method offers the advantage of creating fuller lashes, which is beneficial for clients with sparse natural lashes. However, it is not recommended for clients with naturally curly lashes, as obtaining enough bonding surface from the side can be challenging.
Bottom attachment: This is the second most popular attachment method after top attachment. It works well for clients with upward-looking and curly natural lashes.
Extra tip: If your client has very light blonde natural lashes, attaching dark-colored lash extensions may result in their light-colored roots being exposed, which can create an unfavorable look, especially as they grow out. To tackle this, you can employ the upper attachment technique on the uppermost tiers of the natural lashes and the lower attachment method on the underlying layer. This way, you cover all angles and achieve a more harmonious result.